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The new male models: as seen in Paris, france and Milan

While Hedi Slimane’s womenswear introduction for Saint Laurent Paris had critics looking at the designer’s 1970s vision to Saint Laurent himself, his menswear range looked in other places for inspiration. In reality, the show were recalled Slimane’s own work at Dior Homme, because of the incredibly skinny models he preferred there. Slimane’s work for Dior in early 2000s pioneered a slim rock’n’roll look, with angular males in bands stone island shorts navy frequently replacing male versions on the catwalk. But six years is a long time in fashion. Considering that Slimane last worked with a brand, different body shapes have emerged throughout menswear, with healthy, athletic seem now battling for the top spot. And also the shape of the types walking down the runway for each designer tells you a lot about the series, and how menswear has been evolving.
Saint Laurent Paris

Slim chic: Yves Saint Laurent’s Prepared to Wear show Image: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images/ Victor Virgile

With a cast of rock’n’roll versions from obscure groups including Egyptian Hip Hop and Swim Serious, Slimane went with his brand look: young boys who look like they could use a hot meal. This became common practice at Dior Homme – when members of the actual Cazals and These New Puritans loved the catwalk. From the new environment associated with menswear, though, it felt like a small throwback to when Slimane left off – as if we are still humming Mika as well as rueing the breakup of Justin Timberlake and Cameron Diaz. Face were hollow, shoulders were slight along with legs, encased in leather or artfully cut jeans, were shocklingly Stone Island Fashion Men's Navy Blue Coat twig-like. Type.com’s respected reviewer Ricky Blanks called the shape “a cliche in the vocabulary of Slimanery”. Like it you aren’t, you’d have to consent.

All man: Givenchy A/W 2013 Photograph: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/French Select via Getty Images

Compare the next look shown simply by Givenchy with the Saint Laurent London show, and you will quickly notice the difference. In the event that Slimane’s boy is all hollow face and open-mouthed focus, Givenchy’s is all man: a new strong-jawed, wide-shouldered model with seen, ripped biceps. This healthy, jockish body type has become fashionable in recent years – at Givenchy but also at Calvin Klein as well as JW Anderson – probably in reaction for the reedy boys of Slimane’s Dior Homme nights. It makes even more impression when you find out in which Givenchy designer Ricardo Tisci was motivated by America with this collection.
Dolce & Gabbana

Sicilian boys: Dolce & Gabbana A/W The year 2013. Photograph: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images

As the Italian duo ended up previously notorious pertaining to hunks in trunks, Dolce & Gabbana mixed it last season – through going back to their beginnings. Almost all the models in their 85-look show were found in villages in Sicily – in which Domenico Dolce hails from. All noticeably individual, they were boyish rather than angular teenagers Slimane prefers. They were also the talk from the show – especially while they were such a dramatic change from the usual beefcake – a case in point that the label produced them out this season too. In a show referenced all sorts of Italian language classics – from altar boy to aesthete – this worked second occasion around also.

Provocative normality: Prada A/W 2013 Photograph: Winner Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Prada is often a trailblazer in most areas, and model casting is no exception. Known for finding boys who will continue to big things, the manufacturer went offpiste, and in to the headlines, last year whenever its included stars such as Willem Dafoe and Grettle Oldman among the models rolling around in its autumn/winter 2012 show. In 2010 stone island shorts navy had a similar inclination – with models inside their 30s stone island shorts navy and Fourties mixing with clean faces, including person who had an interesting resemblance to Harry Designs. Miuccia Prada pontificated after the show that “normality could be provocative”.

Classically masculine: Versace A/W 2013 Photograph: Tullio M Puglia/Getty Photographs

If Givenchy represents the newest beefcake in fashion, it’s reasonable to say Versace goes for a much more classic version. Only look at the flesh displayed in an average demonstrate: some part or other of a naked men model appeared in around a third of the company’s autumn/winter show. Some of these failed to leave much on the imagination – with Spanx-type nylon uppers shorts, complete with wide lace edges, involved in one look. Donatella Versace dedicated this particular show to manliness: with male-model body types more and more diverse as men’s clothing gains more of any spotlight, these guys demonstrated that old-school machismo has a place in 21st-century fashion.